Share this article

Ski Whakapapa: From Happy Valley to the Far West, it’s magic

Ski Whakapapa

Whakapapa? Is it just another skifield

The thing about Whakapapa is that it’s not just a ski field – it’s a volcano! It’s a place full of character and charm, where every run feels slightly different. Sure, it has its quirks, but that makes it unique. Whether I’m cruising down a familiar run or finding a new one tucked away, it never gets old.

One of my favourite things about Whakapapa is that seeing everything in one go is impossible. Some of the best runs aren’t even visible from the main field. It’s like a treasure hunt, and I find something new every time I think I’ve covered it all.

Let’s start with Happy Valley. If you’re new to skiing, it’s the ultimate practice ground. I remember taking my daughter there on one of her first trips. We piled onto the elevator that takes you *down* into the Valley (yes, it’s as weird as it sounds), and she spent the day figuring out how not to fall over. Meanwhile, I figured out how many flat whites you can drink daily without vibrating off the bench.

Happy Valley is perfect for beginners. It’s separate from the chaos of the main slopes, with its café, ski rentals, and plenty of space to make mistakes without an audience.

But Whakapapa isn’t just for beginners. The real magic happens once you start exploring. I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve ridden the Valley T-Bar, but it never gets old. Something about the hidden gullies and tucked-away runs makes you feel like you’ve stumbled onto a secret. And then there’s the Far West T-Bar—so far off the beaten track you almost need a map to find it.

And then there’s the Sky Waka gondola. When they installed it, I’ll admit, I was sceptical. But now? It’s the first lift I head for—no more clunky old chairs or waiting in line forever. The gondola sweeps you up to the top in style, with views so good they could charge extra (please don’t take that as a suggestion, Whakapapa). Of course, weekends can still get busy. I’ve learned to get there early—otherwise, you’re the person standing in the line grumbling about all the other people who had the same idea.

On a blue-sky day, there’s nowhere I’d rather be. Mount Ngauruhoe looms in the distance like something out of a movie (because it is, if you count *The Lord of the Rings*), and the snow feels perfect under your skis. Spring skiing is my personal favourite. The snow softens, the crowds thin out, and the vibe shifts from “serious skiing” to “let’s just enjoy the sunshine.” It’s the only time you’ll catch me skiing in a T-shirt, probably looking like a complete fool but having the time of my life.

So, why Whakapapa? It’s simple—it’s the place that makes you fall in love with skiing all over again. Maybe I’ll see you on the slopes, probably grinning like an idiot because that’s what this place does to me.

Table of Contents